(Yom Ha)Shoah and Tel (Aviv)

This past week has certainly been one of bipolar attitudes, filled with highs and lows, although I must say that given the circumstances, the lows were welcomed and embraced.  On Wednesday night and Thursday, the “Israeli High Holidays” began with Yom HaShoah (Holocaust Remembrance Day).  And though this was the official mark of the day, I had been gearing myself for it for the four days prior to its arrival. 

One week ago, I began watching the film Defiance, starring Daniel Craig.  This film tells the story of a Jewish partisan group, the Bielskis, hiding out in the woods of Poland for two years, always on the move to evade Nazi capture.  What struck me most about the story was the immense level of difficulty to maintain a functioning society in the woods, one that numbered well over 1000 people, while always being on the run, never knowing when the next day might be your last, either at the hands of a bullet or because of starvation.  But what also caught my attention is how little I knew about this group until I had watched the film.  If you have not watched the film, or have not heard of the Bielski group, I highly recommend that you change that.

Last Sunday night, I had the honor of hearing a talk given by Holocaust Survivor, Leah Kaufman.  She relayed the full details of her story, with her many of her family succumbing to and being destroyed at the hands of the Nazi regime.  She had escaped them and had changed her identity to a non-Jewish woman working at a restaurant, often serving food to Nazis and overhearing their ghastly conversations.  I cannot imagine what it was like to live each day knowing that you are not the person that you say you are, constantly wanting to break away from this deception, but understanding the grave consequences that accompany such an act.

Before Thursday, I sat in on two more Holocaust-themed classes.  Thursday marked Yom HaShoah, and Hebrew U commemorated this day with a beautiful ceremony that was led by many of my fellow classmates.  Quotes were read, songs were sung, tears were shed, and Hatikvah was chanted with somber ruach (an oxymoron, I know).  Hatikvah always gets me. 

Classes ran as usual following the ceremony, and I ended the week with my European University class which meets from 4:30 PM to 6:00 PM.  Following class, my friend Hannah and I ran back home to collect our bags and head to the Central Bus Station.  Thursday also marked our friend Robyn’s 21^st birthday, and many of us made a pilgrimage to Tel Aviv for the night to celebrate with her.  When we got to the bus station in Tel Aviv, I felt that I was in a separate world.  It is funny how two cities of the same country which reside only an hour apart from each other can be so markedly different.  Firstly, it was quite dirty and run-down, unlike the bus station in Jerusalem which is pretty well kept.  The next thing I noticed was a flock of women whom I am actually quite sure solicit sex for a living.  Their appearance was so opposite to anything you could even imagine seeing in Jerusalem that I was exposed to culture shock. 

The others had already been in Tel Aviv for some time, and so when we met up with them at the Max Brenner Chocolate Shop where they were finishing up their dinner/dessert, we headed out to the clubs, though we never in fact entered into any because the bouncers there had large yetzer ha’ras (evil inclinations).

After hopping from club (line) to club (line), we cabbed back to the hostel, which was situated just blocks away from the beach, and took a walk over to the beach, which housed a great pub overlooking the incoming tide.  After enjoying conversation which flowed like the waves, he headed back to the hotel, for it was nearly 3:00 AM by this point. 

We awoke during the mid-morning the next day, and spent the afternoon on the beach.  It was a warm, sunny day which provided perfect beach weather.  I lunched over beer and ice cream, and after a few more hours soaking up the sun, we headed out of Tel Aviv en route to Jerusalem.  I had another great Shabbos dinner at my friends Yossi and Chaya Witkes’ place, and was very happy to bring a nice Hebrew U entourage along with me.  Afterwards, we strolled the streets of Jerusalem on an hour and a half long walk back to our dorms.  Funny how life is so solemn one minute, and so joyous the next. 

Much love,

Zac