As I sit here and begin this entry, I am reunited with my family, and we are pacifically resting in our hotel in Tel Aviv! The others are taking a nap, quite understandable as the jetlag from the flight over here acts as a stubborn inhibitor to any thrills one hopes for on the first day here. Before I write at length about my reunion, I will first delineate the events from this past week leading up to this exciting occasion. I have found that often, when I find myself struggling to vividly recall memories from the semester, I go to my blog entries and I can see those memories before my eyes, vicariously living through myself, if that is possible.
The apex of my week, before the arrival of my family of course, was a day trip to Ashdod with my friends Lauren and Sara. Ashdod, one of the most active port cities here, is home to a beautiful beach. When we arrived there, we walked around in search of the beach, but first encountered a playground, though not any old playground. This one was a marvel of civil engineering. With its fifty foot slides, towering jungle gyms, and dizzying merry-go-rounds, I felt like I was six again. But after the sun beamed down on me a bit longer, I also felt it was time for the beach. It was Lauren’s birthday, so we first sat down for a nice lunch before spending a few hours laying out on the sand and swimming with the tide.
Another staple of my week was going out with friends to my favorite watering hole in Jerusalem, Bell Wood Bar. A classy bar with a great drink selection, Bell Wood played host to the Euro Cup games, and that is where we would watch. I have bet my friend Rachel a schwarma that Italy wins it all. She has Spain. I’m feeling that gelato will reign supreme.
I woke up early on Thursday, my last morning in my student village. After gathering all of my bags, I checked out of the kfar, took a light rail to the bus station, then a bus to Tel Aviv, then a cab to the hotel where my family had been awaiting my arrival. Our reunion was long anticipated, and when it finally came to fruition, it was warm, nostalgic, and revitalizing. Because our hotel room would not be ready until hours later, our first move together was to grab a bite to eat, which we did on the beach.
After sufficiently stuffing our faces, Jamie and Sydney napped on the beach, and my father and I found a nearby Oasis Mexicano and got ourselves a few cervesas. But soon enough, the room was ready, and a light snooze on the beach turned into deep slumber within the confines of our room. When we first arrived in Tel Aviv, we were alerted that we had luckily chosen a great night to spend there. Lady Serendipity materialized in the form of “White Night”, an all night, extravaganza that spanned all of the city, from various concerts all along Rothschild St., to a fashion show off of Allenby St., to a late night dance rave on the beach. Lack of sleep had gotten the better of my three companions, and so we missed most of the evening’s events, but our night did include a great dinner on Rothschild amid the various bands warming up and a glimpse of the fashion show.
The next morning, we booked it out of the “City of Hangovers” and made our way to the city of Tzfat, the “City of Mysticism, Art, and Psychedelic Drugs”, but before doing so, we stopped at Shuk Carmel, Tel Aviv’s version of Machane Yehuda, the Jerusalem Shuk. Unlike the labyrinth that is Machane Yehuda, Shuk Carmel is one long alleyway. In contrast with Jerusalem’s rendition of the market, I found Tel Aviv’s shuk to lack personality and flavor. Its blandness made me homesick, but not for Chicago or Madison, for Jerusalem. The entire time we walked through its main corridor, I wished to bring my family to my home here in Israel, Jerusalem.
After purchasing some fruit and nuts at Shuk Carmel, we left the borders of Tel Aviv en route to Tzfat. Our first stop there was at the famous artist galleries, where one finds dozens of craftsmen and artisans displaying their work. Afterwards, we walked around the city, falafel in hand, and enjoyed the people watching, those scurrying along in order to close up shop and freshen up in preparation for Shabbat.
We took the hint and temporarily exited the city as well. Our place of residence for the next two nights would be the Dream Time Hotel, located in the nearby village of Amirim. Finding the place was no easy feat, even with the assistance of Kate, the kindly British woman whose voice echoed from our GPS. Deep in the middle of nowhere, through many a twist, many a turn, many a zig, and many a zag, and over many a speed bump, we discovered our sleeping quarters. They turned out to be quite nice, two large bedrooms, a great living room, full kitchen, breakfast service, and a porch that overlooked the mountains. We freshened up and eventually journeyed back to Tzfat for Shabbat.
When I had originally told my family about the splendor of Shabbat in Tzfat, I raved about the singing and dancing that goes on in the streets on Friday nights in the summer. That is what I wanted to show them most. We got in contact with a lady there named Sara Chava who was happy to feed and entertain us for the night, but learned that we would be davening at their synagogue in the city, one of the Breslev sect, and would not get our groove on in the streets. As fun as it would have been to let loose out there, we accompanied Sara Chava’s husband Chaim, who did not speak any English, to his synagogue. Although I did not care much for services, his temple was stunning, crafted from Jerusalem stone, with a hand-carved ark, portraits, and pictures decorating the walls, and a baby blue sky covering the ceiling.
Our dinner there with Chaim and Sara Chava, was also memorable, full of conversation and good food. We stayed until nearly 11:00 PM, which was hard for everyone else as the presence of jetlag was still in the picture. But then we said our goodbyes and twisted and turned back to Dream Time where it was time to dream.
At 9:00 AM the next morning, we were greeted by the tour guide we had booked to show us all around the north. Dor, our guide, was an Israeli not much older than myself. Actually, we went to high school together, though we had never met each other. He was a senior at Stevenson High School when I was a freshman. After school, he joined the IDF and has been living in Israel ever since. He took us many places, first to a cave, then to Baram National Park, where a synagogue dating back to the 3rd century was located, then to Tel Dan, a stunning park where we enjoyed an hour long walk through the woods. Along the way, we witnessed a river of rapids, salamanders and crabs on the ground, and Syria and Lebanon in the distance.
If Tel Dan wasn’t the greatest place he took us to, then his lunch selection was. After walking for so long, we had all built up an appetite, and boy did it come in handy. Salad after salad, laffa after laffa, skewer after skewer, food was brought out in such abundance that I felt full afterwards, and that is a rarity for me. The meal came with complimentary Turkish coffee and baklava for dessert, and after loosening our belts a few notches, we made our way to the Kinaret. A sight to behold, the Kinaret, or Sea of Galilee, is a beautiful body of water, completely enclosed within Israeli borders, and offers those coming from far and wide a picturesque view. Dor knew a great spot to see the sea, and we soaked up the sun for a few moments before driving down to a nearby beach for a closer look. We said goodbye to Dor shortly after that, and returned to our cabin for a relaxing night.
Tomorrow we are finishing our tour of Tzfat, trying our best to make our way to see the ruins of Caesaria, and then finally driving down to Jerusalem where we will rent out an apartment for the week. I cannot describe what a luxury it is to have my family with me here, nor can I put into words how eagerly I am awaiting my time in Jerusalem with them. I’m enthralled with the prospect of playing tour guide there, and showing them my favorite hotspots and eateries has dominated my thoughts since their arrival here. And so to family, and to Israel, I say L’Chaim. To Life.
Next year (or rather tomorrow) in Jerusalem!
Zac






